Robe à Francaise

I’ve been looking at the many different variations and designs of gowns during the later half of the 18th century. There are quite a few, and I enjoy the different names that are given to them. Its like even at their names, there is a sense of occasion or splendor that was Rococo.

During this century, women’s clothing consisted of a petticoat or skirt from today’s standards, a robe, and a stomacher. The garments were worn over a set of stays and panniers or pocket hoops.

The very first gown I made a few years ago was a robe à la Française. This formal gown was worn during most of the 18th century. This gown was also known once as a sacque or sack gown. By the 1770s this gown did make way for other gowns that came out of England in a wave of Anglomania.

During the turn of the 18th century, it was unfitted both at the front and back and was known as robe volante. As the century progressed, the front became more fitted, and was closed at the front with a stomacher. The stomacher sometimes disappeared during the last quarter of the century as less formal clothing as England gained more influence within French fashion.

Robe à l'Anglaise

What gave the dress its unique look were the four main pleats at the back of the dress. It was meant to fall down from the bodice, showing the beautiful pleating. The lining of this same section of the gown, helped create the fitted look that came around the sides into the front, which was fastened to a triangular stomacher.

At the moment I’m working on a dress called robe à l’anglaise. As the name, its influence came from England’s more simplified design, which caused dresses to be less decorated and more practical when it came to dressing.

Sometimes the stomacher was completely removed and the sides of the robe came around, closing the bodice. They were fastened with buttons, hooks and eyes, or ribbons, which cut the time down from attaching the traditional stomacher.

What I enjoy about this dress is it has a feel of simplicity and modernism,

Robe à l'Anglaise (back, en fourreau)

when you compare it with the Robe à Francaise. From what I have seen, these dresses have two main ways of finishing off the back of the bodice. One way is to have a more simple back, by having the skirt sewn into the bodice as two separate main pieces. Another way, which happens to be my favoured design, is two have part of the back bodice flow down the center back. I love this design as the small pleats flow tightly to the bodice and come away, continuing to flow of the length of the robe. This is commonly known as, en fourreau, which came about during the 1770s.

I was very inspired by the gown worn by Keira Knightley in the opening scene of ‘The Duchess’, and after watching this scene a couple of times, I really wanted to create a version of this dress.

Keira Knightley in The Duchess

Yesterday I went to Global Fabrics, here in Wellington, now my favourite place for beautiful fabrics. I got four new pieces, all of them silk, except for the two-toned stripes that were a cotton/silk blend. For me this is really exciting, as it confirms to me that the project is really on its way Why the need for the silk? I do plan to sew more than one, and maybe make a robe à la Polonaise.

They asked me various questions about my interest in this craft. I hope you enjoy reading the interview, as much as I enjoyed the experience.

A Conversation with a Rococo Doll Costume Designer

If you wish to download this pattern for free, please subscribe directly through my website. I will provide a link through a letter.

I’m also developing a new pattern. I look forward in sharing this. It will be a modern pattern, which will be available to download.

Due to the success of Rococo Elegance, I have decided to design more historical patterns, as well as modern fashion. I also got a lot of feedback how digital would be a great option. So I’ve decided to make all patterns digital. This will cut out postage and printing costs.

I want to have another historical outfit added this year, I haven’t decided switch era. I’ve enjoyed looking through some amazing books. Another point of inspiration is period films. It gives me a chance to see the outfits move, and is just a lot more interesting at times.

For those who have heard of www.meetup.com probably have found, like I have, craft groups in there area. I recently joined a group in Wellington Fabric Hoarders http://www.meetup.com/Wellington-fabric-hoarders/ There are some great ideas developing, looking forward how this new group evolves. Should be fun:)

petticoat and stays

I now have finished the petticoat, and I do love the silk on her. This will be for another gown known as Robe à la Française. I do enjoy making this gown, and look forward in seeing her looking a little more formal.

entrance to her pockets

If you’re wondering how to make that set of stays (or corset), I’m actually selling the pattern including all the other garments in this beautiful collection as one project.

Here’s the direct link:

http://www.marialouisadolls.com/shop/rococo_elegance.html

I’ve decided to make another dress. This time it will be more of a formal gown own in French as the, Robe à la Française. I wanted to show off the differences of the same pattern, and because I love the idea of seeing her in more formal attire.

silk fabric

I have chosen silk in two shades of green. The dark green will be used on the petticoat and I plan to use the lighter green for the main gown. Yes green is my favourite colour, and this will be the second dress I make using this colour.

The first one was a ‘60s dress I made as a limited edition. I love the garters on that outfit, for its really cute seeing ‘real’ items of clothing on such a small model. She’s so cute